What is a Bezel setting?
A Bezel is the ‘wall’ of metal surrounding a gemstone, rubbed over the edge of the stone to hold it within the setting.
For this reason, Bezel settings are sometimes referred to as rub-over or rubbed-over settings. They come in all sizes and metal types suitable for most gemstone shapes and jewellery types.
The metal collar used for a Bezel setting typically has a smaller inside diameter than that of the stone, with a larger outer diameter to the stone.
Selecting the correct diamond size for a Bezel setting.
When we select a diamond for a Bezel setting, we seat the diamond on the prepared casting. The outer edge of the diamond should sit fractionally over the inner edge to ensure the correct fit. Most of our Round and Princess cut Bezel set diamond engagement rings have been re-designed to hold specific diamond sizes. In contrast, we create most fancy-shaped bezel settings around each diamond to ensure the correct size and fit.
Bezel settings for fancy diamond shapes
Bezel set engagement rings provide greater security for diamonds and gemstones. In addition to greater protection for the diamond, reducing the risk of snagging benefits clothing. Additional benefits include Bezel settings being child-friendly, something we have discussed previously. Furthermore, this type of setting defines the shape of a diamond. This is especially useful when choosing a small diamond size. Small fancy shaped diamonds often lose their shape when surrounded by claws. A full bezel outlines the stone—further defining and enhancing the shape.
Two styles of a Bezel setting
There are two styles for the Bezel setting. The full bezel and the partial or part bezel.
Full Bezel settings
Full bezel settings surround a diamond entirely. A metal wall pushed over the edge of the stone results in a neat, contemporary look to the finished piece of jewellery.
Partial Bezel settings
Partial bezel settings surround only part of a diamond. The exposed edge of the diamond gives an open feel to jewellery design. Another benefit is the passage of light through the diamond. Jewellery designers use partial bezel settings with great versatility. Many Bezel settings hold the stone with a degree of tension. As a result, changing the size of a Partial bezel engagement ring can affect the setting. For this reason, we recommend re-tensioning any such ring following any sizing work.
Bezel set diamond wedding rings
There are no limitations to design when it comes to a Bezel set item of jewellery. In addition to engagement rings, we hand-craft Bezel-set wedding rings. The design below shaped gently to a diamond Bubble ring, made for one of our local clients on the Isle of Wight.
Browse our Bezel set diamond engagement ring styles
Don’t forget to browse our selection of Bezel settings on the Serendipity Diamonds website. Each style can be fully customised with a range of diamond sizes, qualities and precious metals including 100% ethical Fairtrade Gold.