A Guide to Diamond Ring Settings
The Diamond ring setting is the section of a jewellery item holding the gemstones. All gem set items of jewellery use settings as a way to secure each stone. The setting of a ring performs three main functions. It provides security for the Diamond. It frames your Diamond. It allows light to enter into the Diamond. Well designed Engagement Ring settings will fulfil each of these three criteria. Since the Diamond(s) make up the greater part of a ring's cost, it is essential that the Diamond is secured whilst being clearly visible. There are a number of different setting styles available. We'll guide you through each of them here.
Claw or Prong Settings
Claw settings are also referred to as prong settings. The number of claws can vary significantly but simple four claw and six claw designs remain most popular. Many of the popular Tiffany styles of Engagement Ring present the Diamond in fairly high settings, which might not always be too practical for everyday wear. A mid height is always sensible, combined with a suitable number of claws to surround the stone and offer security. Thinner claws usually require an under-bezel to strengthen claws whereas thicker claws often give a more open look.
The bezel or rub-over style is a very efficient way of securing the Diamond. The Diamond sits into a surrounding bezel of precious metal. The the edges are pushed over the edge of the stone, offering maximum security to the Diamond. This type of setting can be very effective for fancy shapes of Diamond. The fact that the metal faithfully follows the outline helps to emphasise the Diamond shape.
Pavé is a term is used to describe the setting technique used to cover an expanse of metal with Diamonds, literally paving the metal with small Diamonds. From a distance, it creates a continuous expanse of Diamonds. Each small stone is held by beads of metal. These form individual settings for each stone in a carpet of Diamonds. The pavé setting style is a very effective way of setting Diamonds evenly over a rounded surface.
Flush set Diamonds sit into the surface metal of jewellery. The metal is first cut out to accommodate the stone which is then set into this recess before the ring is polished. The effect is perfect for occasional Diamonds in a Wedding Band. This technique can be used for fancy shapes also. Diamonds are well protected due to the metal surrounding the stone.
Tension Style Settings
The bar setting is literally self explanatory. Small bars of metal are used to secure each Diamond. These can be used for Round Brilliant cut Diamonds, fancy shapes, and can be used in multiples along a ring to create an even continuous system of setting the Diamond. This is even a popular choice for Engagement Ring settings as seen in the first image below where a Princess cut solitaire has been set with this style.
Grain settings provide an effective method of setting small Diamonds securely across an item of jewellery. Small grains of metal bordering each Diamond support the stone. The image below shows a Diamond Wedding Ring with grain settings. This setting style is popular for Wedding Rings, Eternity Rings and for the Diamond shoulders of Engagement Rings.